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"What is the best way to
regenerate a derelict and hard-to-reach chunk of English history
when it is marooned in an incredibly sensitive marine habitat
of international importance?"
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FORTRESS
PORTLAND
Isolation, insularity and local distinctiveness.
The Isle of Portland is a four and a half
mile long limestone outcrop which has provided the material
for some of the world's most famous monuments. St Paul's Cathedral
in London, the markers for the Mason and Dixon line in the
USA, and countless war memorials across Europe are all made
of stone from the island's quarries. Portland protrudes into
the English Channel at a point on the South Coast directly
opposite Cherbourg in France. The isle is tethered to the
mainland by a tapering spit of shingle known as the Chesil.
Between Portland and the mainland is a natural harbour of
nearly 2,000 acres of sheltered water protected by massive
breakwaters. The harbour is a unique feature of the south
coast and is of immense ecological value comparable to a Scottish
sea loch.
Portland's supply of workable stone and its
fortress character ensured that it was one of Britain's earliest
settlements. Traces of human occupation date back 7,000 years
to the Neolithic period. Bronze, Iron Age and Roman settlers
have all left their mark. The Dorset writer Thomas Hardy set
his 1897 novel The Well-Beloved on Portland and he described
the islanders as "a curious and almost distinctive people
cherishing strange beliefs and singular customs". Portlanders
were known for their distrust of "foreigners" and for their
island solidarity. They had a special term for mainlanders
who they called "kimberlins", an ancient dialect word for
unwelcome strangers. Rocks were thrown at unwanted visitors
as they tried to cross to the island. As well as the stone
industry, Portland boasts its own peculiar varieties of sheep
and potato, and it once had a breed of web-footed dog that
was trained to retrieve goods from shipwrecks. In 1869 the
Royal National Lifeboat Institution set up a station in nearby
Weymouth to save the lives of the sailors - leaving the dogs
to retrieve the often valuable cargoes.
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THE CYBERPORT
Isolation as advantage
The essence of the Cyberport concept is to
create a futuristic commercial environment that serves the
communication needs of government, corporations, the local
community, digital publishers and interactive TV stations.
The Cyberport will transform a derelict huddle of buildings
into a multimedia centre of excellence for the 21st century.
It will nurture a wellpool of skills intellectual, scientific
and artistic which can service national and international
markets thirst for information and knowledge. It will also
be a visitor attraction and an educational and research resource
capable of serving students of all ages and levels.
Such a project fits Portland's geography,
history and culture because it turns difficult local characteristics
to its own advantage rather than seeing them as problems merely
to be overcome. Although the forts were originally built to
repel people, the Cyberport will attract them, but not in
terms of heavy footfall. Indeed, the development is in line
with modern tourism trends in seeking open access for all
but limiting environmental trauma by restricting actual access
to the specialised few. Geographical isolation, and the arduousness
of actually getting there, is a virtue. Inaccessibility makes
the place interesting, it offers a rare environment to the
actual visitor and it is easily circumvented by the virtual
visitor. You won't need to be here to go here and use the
facilities.
The Cyberport's spectacular natural setting
offers repose after the rigours of work on electronic screens,
it also has commercial potential for its recreational possibilities.
It is expected that people using the site will divide into
four main categories; resident staff, day visitors on training
courses, research or recreational pursuits, casual visitors
and the virtual visitors using on-line services. Commercial
proposals under consideration for the site include the following:
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A digital library. This new concept
in data management and storage has the potential to cover
a wide range of subjects. Finance will be obtained through
direct commissions from leading corporations and sponsors
and through the sale of stored information. Clients will access
the library via the Internet or other interactive media system
and then be charged micro-payments under the new e-cash system
currently being developed by the world banks.
Facility house. The digital library
will require the installation of advanced equipment and multimedia
design and production companies will be able to share these
facilities.
Interactive TV centre. The Cyberport
will provide graduates and other students with the opportunity
to extend their education and a variety of training courses
will be offered.
Other uses may include residential and guest
accommodation, a restaurant with access to some of the best
fish and shellfish in Britain, possibly mooring facilities
for visitors, plus an environmental interpretation and visitor
centre. Commercial partners would be sought to establish these
ventures. From his years of experience in the international
multimedia market, Tymn Lintell is
convinced that this venture will attract backing from leading
business organisations. The managing company plans to acquire
a lease on the buildings, undertake repairs and conversion
work and operate the centre. A core staff will be retained
and some personnel will be resident in order to run the enterprise.
Other staff may be seconded from national and international
firms and research bodies.
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BUILDINGS
AND SITE DESCRIPTION
The breakwaters and the two forts are historic
buildings in their own right and are all English Heritage
Grade II listed. For discussion purposes they may be spilt
into two entities consisting on one hand of the breakwaters,
lesser fort and associated buildings, and on the other, the
main Breakwater Fort and ancillary buildings.
1. The breakwaters. There are actually two
breakwaters - the Inner and Outer - separated by the gap of
the South, or Hood, Channel. The Inner breakwater, begun in
1849 and completed in 1872, has a pier 40m long and brick
storage chambers. At the north east end is a smaller fort,
the Inner Pierhead Fort, which was completed in 1866 and is
also Grade II listed. The Inner Pierhead Fort is filled with
debris and rubbish but the original form is remarkably intact.
Across the South Channel is the Outer Breakwater,
a major construction begun in about 1852 and completed in
1872. It too has an inner pier and a fort at the far northern
end.
This is the Breakwater Fort.
2. The Breakwater or Chequered Fort lies at
the end of the Outer Breakwater, more than a mile from land.
Completed in about 1882, it was originally designed as a granite
structure, but was later clad in three thicknesses of armour
plating each 15cms thick and given a bomb-proof concrete-capped
iron roof. The structure is 60m in diameter and could once
have accommodated 150 men. Nowadays the fort is damp inside
and prone to minor leaks but many of the original fixtures
and fittings survive including slatted timber floors, pegs
for hanging clothes and shell hoists. Nearby is a cluster
of other structures including officers' housing, latrines,
a cookhouse with range, and an engine room with generator.
These buildings are in a poor state of repair.
Detailed records and drawings of the forts
and breakwaters exist. Research was undertaken by Keystone
Historic Buildings Consultants of Exeter for Weymouth and
Portland Borough Council in 1993. A further, up-to-date review
is now necessary.
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HISTORY
The breakwaters and forts are a tremendous
feat of Victorian engineering. In their time they were state-of-the-art
defences. The first stone on the Inner Breakwater was laid
in 1849 by Queen Victoria's consort Prince Albert and the
final touches to the Outer were overseen by his son Albert,
Prince of Wales in 1872. The whole edifice was built up from
the seabed using nearly six million tons of Portland stone
hewn by hand and manhandled into place by convict labour from
the nearby prison. It has been calculated that the same amount
of stone could build a wall 30m high 12m thick and five miles
long.
During their construction the breakwaters
were a huge tourist attraction. Wooden walkways were established
alongside so that sightseers could promenade up and down taking
the air and admiring the prisoners at work. One unfortunate
lady caught her crinoline under the wheel of a stone truck
and was dragged to her death. Nine fathoms underwater, divers
laboured in cumbersome suits of leather, rubber and copper
and one of the first diving bells was deployed. The arrival
in the harbour in 1859 of Isambard Kingdom Brunel's steamship
the Great Eastern added to the excitement.
Portland's fortifications were soon superseded
by new technology in the shape of the torpedo. The breakwaters
and their forts, like the last medieval castles before gunpowder,
are superb examples of defence at the very end of a particular
era. In the early 20th century the navigation light on top
of the Breakwater Fort was replaced by a new lighthouse on
the opposite breakwater and a modern weapons system including
searchlights was installed in it's place. The forts were used
during the First World War and played a part in defending
the harbour during the Second World War preparations for D-Day.
New buildings were added during these years. After World War
II the forts were closed and the area was absorbed into the
expanding Naval Base. The breakwaters and forts remained Navy
property until the base closed in 1996 and the harbour area
was handed over to the private company Portland Port Ltd,
a subsidiary of Langham Industries, which has a range of worldwide
shipping and marine engineering interests.
Closure of the Navy Base plunged Portland
into gloom - jobs were lost and many people moved into less
well-paid or secure employment. Estimates suggest that the
local economy was depleted by £45million a year. The
area has since attracted UK Government money and European
funding for regeneration. A partnership has been formed between
local councils and interested businesses and organisations
with the intention of making the area into a European centre
of excellence in a range of industries.
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THE
NATURAL ENVIRONMENT: GIFTS AND RESPONSIBILITIES
Any development of the breakwater forts and
their surrounding buildings raises tricky environmental issues.
The site is too remote to rely on mainland services for fresh
water, sewerage and power so must find sustainable, non-polluting
ways to cope with its energy needs.
Pollution would be particularly unacceptable
because the harbour water is exceptionally pure and supports
a unique ecosystem. Most of the area is classified as Class
A - the highest grade - under the British Food Safety (Live
Bivalve Molluscs and Other Shellfish) Regulations of 1992.
This means that shellfish from the harbour can be taken for
human consumption without further treatment. Very few British
coastal waters are judged to be so clean.
The purity of Portland Harbour water has helped
to make it an ecologically rich area of international importance
which shelters many rare and interesting marine species. In
1993 English Nature identified the harbour as one of the UK's
most valuable natural habitats. Construction of the breakwaters
during the last century has served to accentuate what was
already a long-established, natural feature of the coast.
Portland Harbour's unique marine ecosystem relies upon an
unusual combination of deep water and deep mud with a complex
tidal pattern. English Nature says this has created an environment
comparable to a Scottish sea loch, with the significant difference
that the water off the South Coast of England is warmer. The
harbour lies on the dividing line between the warm Atlantic
currents and the cold waters of the North Sea and much of
the marine life found here exists at the limit of its geographic
range.
This exceptional marine habitat shelters its
own distinct species. The Portland bristle worm, red band
fish and the sea pen are incredibly rare elsewhere around
the UK but are relatively common in the harbour. Even more
distinctive is the black-faced blenny which lives and breeds
on the breakwaters. It used to be thought that this little
fish occurred only in Portland Harbour. In recent years a
few specimens have been found further along the Dorset coast
but the breakwaters remain its stronghold and main breeding
ground.
Wildlife and plantlife are equally abundant
and distinctive above the water line. The whole coastline
around the harbour is a designated Site of Special Scientific
Interest and the area attracts many uncommon species of migratory
birds. Next to the harbour on the other side of the Chesil
bank is the Fleet Lagoon, recognised by the EU for its marine
species, habitat and shorelife. The Fleet and the Chesil are
of great importance for migratory wildfowl and are notified
as a Wetland of International Importance under the Ramsar
Convention. Portland harbour acts as a conduit for species
such as sea bass which breed in the lagoon and then make their
way to the open sea via the harbour. While research has been
carried out on the creatures of the Fleet, relatively little
is known about the species inhabiting the harbour. Provision
of on-site research facilities at the Cyberport could make
a valuable contribution to the study and conservation of the
Earth's biodiversity in rare habitats.
The Cyberport's location gives it a vast educational
and research potential. Portland as a whole is part of the
Jurassic Coast Project and in the centre of an area likely
to soon achieve World Heritage Site status for its geology.
The Dorset coast is recognised as being of international importance
because it shows an almost complete North European sedimentary
record of 200 million years of the Earth's history during
the Jurassic Period. The richness of the fossil record alone
has brought the coast international recognition in the 200
years since the birth of Mary Anning, the Dorset woman who
uncovered the first plesiosaur at Lyme Regis. Under the umbrella
of the Dorset Coastal Forum, the Jurassic Coast Project is
already developing new, sustainable tourism for the county.
High quality educational materials are being produced for
teachers and students and there is a demand for an on-site
resource centre which can be accessed by the Internet and
provide digital images for a range of educational purposes.
This is an established need which Cyberport and its digital
library could cater for.
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BUT WHO WANTS
TO SIT ON A WAVE-LASHED ROCK GAZING OUT TO SEA?
Portland Harbour offers recreational activities
of a national standard. The harbour is one of the UK's best
sites for diving, sailing, sailboarding and bird-watching.
The breakwaters' position make them an ideal point of controlled
access for all these leisure activities.
Sailing and sailboarding: The prevailing wind
is south westerly and comes in over the Chesil Bank, picking
up speed before blowing across the calm water of the harbour
creating perfect conditions for sailboarding. The harbour
is deep enough for large sailing vessels and the Portland
promontory would provide an ideal standpoint for viewing sailing
races - just as it once formed a grandstand for the crowds
who came in the 16th century to watch the Royal Navy do battle
with the Spanish Armada. The harbour has the potential to
become a high-class marina attracting yachts and pleasure
craft from the English Channel and there are hopes that the
Americas Cup may be held here.
Diving: More than 10,000 individual divers
use the harbour every year making it one of the most popular
diving sites in the UK. Much of the activity takes place around
the breakwaters as divers explore the wrecks lying in this
part of the water, including the redundant battleship HMS
Hood which was scuttled in 1914 to block the channel between
the Inner and Outer breakwaters. The Cyberport could relay
live footage of wrecks and undersea life over the Internet
and provide useful information to divers. Local tourist officers
say that prospective divers often ask what their families
can do while they are diving - the Cyberport could provide
a variety of answers.
Bird-watching: Spring and autumn migrations
bring many interesting species of bird to the harbour. The
breakwaters themselves have been used as a nesting site for
the rare roseate tern which is globally threatened with extinction
and has only one or two known nesting sites throughout the
UK. Black-necked grebes favour an area below Sandsfoot Castle
and large concentrations of red-breasted mergansers nest along
the beach near to the former air station. Divers and sea ducks
all overwinter in the harbour waters. Dedicated bird-watchers
already make good use of Portland Bill Bird Observatory.
The Cyberport's on-line services could relay
information and pictures to ornithologists across the world.
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FIRST STEPS
This is a project which aims to use community
involvement productively, not as an end in itself but as a
motor to drive development forward. Public awareness and involvement
will be stimulated from the very beginning through the Cyberport's
ongoing website which will draw in experts and enthusiasts
from across the globe and get them to participate. The process
of restoration and work will create an attraction in itself
and shape the eventual end-product. The idea is to let the
project grow organically through public interest and demand.
This means flexible planning which at all stages allows for
changes and adaptations in response to public need. As a part
of the Feasibility study, three first steps are being suggested
to get the project started.
Stage one may be to establish funding and
use local stonemasonry skills to grade and level part of the
breakwater to create a Millennium Mile. This promenade would
echo the original Victorian walkway which drew so many crowds
when the breakwaters were being built. As well as providing
a visually stunning place to walk it would add to the character
of the Dorset coast by offering a satisfying aesthetic counterbalance
to the famous Cobb wall and promenade across the water on
the other side of Lyme Bay at Lyme Regis. History could be
further reflected by carving a timeline recording events from
the Jurassic Period to the present day into the stone pavement.
Stage two might well be to start a revenue
stream flowing by establishing a small teashop or visitor
centre next to the promenade. The visitor centre could interpret
the breakwaters' fascinating history and display additional
material about Portland contributed by local people.
Stage three would be to secure a weatherproof
site office and start work on conversion and restoration.
In March 1999 the last stage of Navy withdrawal
was completed with the closure of the Air Station near to
the breakwaters. As a result, English Heritage is further
promoting Portland Castle which lies west of the breakwater.
Boat trips are being run from Weymouth across the harbour
to the castle. There is an opportunity here to include the
breakwaters in any such trip. Visitors could be brought to
the site without the need for car parking. Development of
the Cyberport and Millennium Mile would rely heavily on transportation
by sea given the limited car parking available nearby. This
may not be a problem - Hurst Castle at Keyhaven in Hampshire
is a fine example of a popular monument which can be reached
only by a considerable walk on foot, or by ferry.
Alternatively, a dramatic new footbridge could
be created across the Hood channel, giving direct access from
the Port area.
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SUMMARY
The Cyberport is a chance to experiment in
the creation of a permanently open leisure attraction which
also has a genuine business and economic purpose. Sponsorship
from major companies could make this a centre of excellence
for multimedia information and revitalise a deprived area.
The opportunity to try out new methods and technologies in
what could become a kind of media laboratory could give the
Cyberport a national influence on the way we live, work and
communicate.
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REFERENCE
MATERIALS
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Portland, An Illustrated History:
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Stuart Morris, Dovecote Press, 1988
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Cyberport, A Proposal:
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TLA, 1997
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Portland. Island of Discovery:
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Geography fieldwork enquiry for Key Stage 3, GCSE and
A-Level teachers guide: Weymouth and Portland Borough
Council Planning Department 1996.
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The Portland Naval Base:
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Keystone Report: K/428, Keystone Historic Building
Consultants, Exeter 1996
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Proposals for the Future Management
of Portland Harbour:
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Weymouth and Portland Borough Council, 1995
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Lyme Regis, Charmouth, Bridport and
the Dorset Coast:
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Ward Lock's Red Guides, 1966
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The Portland Breakwaters - a Victorian
achievement:
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Boddy and West, Industrial Archaeology, Vol 16, no3
1981
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The Well-Beloved:
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Thomas Hardy, 1897
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Also, telephone conversations with:
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- English Nature, Wareham office.
- Richard Edmonds, Jurassic Coast Project, Dorset
County Council, Dorchester.
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With thanks to:
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- Steve Davis and Rupert Best at Portland Port.
- Sarah Hudston and Terri Lane.
- Nicholas Garner at Codesign.
- Peter Nelson at Land Use Consultants (Bristol)
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©Tymn Lintell,1999 |
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