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THE SITE
The World Heritage Site covers the 95 miles
of cliffs and fore shore between Exmouth in East Devon and
the southern end of Studland Bay in Dorset. The site does
not include the frontages of the main towns, Exmouth, Budleigh
Salterton, Sidmouth, Seaton, Lyme Regis, Weymouth and Swanage
but these are the Gateways to the site.
There are six reasons why the coast has
been designated a World Heritage Site.
1. The Rocks.
The cliffs and fore shore contain a near complete
record through 185 million years of the Earth's history in
just 95 miles of coast. This is the best place in the World
to see a complete sequence of rocks from the Triassic, Jurassic
and Cretaceous Periods of geological time.
The reason is simple: across the length of
the coast, the overall dip of the rocks is gently to the east.
As a result, the oldest rocks are found in the west but they
dip down below the sea to the east, allowing progressively
younger rocks to form the cliffs. Therefore, the oldest rocks
from the Triassic period (250 to 200 million years old) form
the red cliffs of East Devon. The dark clay rocks around Lyme
Regis are the earliest Jurassic rocks (200 million years old)
while the youngest form the Isle of Portland (140 million
years old). In Purbeck, the distribution of the rocks is complicated
by a huge fold that runs through Lulworth Cove and out to
Ballard Down on the north side of Swanage Bay. Here the best
sections through the Cretaceous rocks are exposed, including
the Purbeck Beds and the Chalk.
There is a further complication in that during
the Lower Cretaceous a period of erosion took place and therefore
the overlying Upper Greensand lies on an eroded surface and
there is a gap in the rock record known as an unconformity.
Because the older rocks are tilted, the gap is more extreme
to the west. In Swanage Bay, the unconformity is very small
but in West Dorset, all of the Lower Cretaceous and most of
the Jurassic rocks have been eroded away, while in East Devon,
the Upper Greensand lies directly on the Triassic.
2. The Fossils.
There are a number of exceptional fossil sites
along the coast including the Lower Jurassic rocks at Lyme
Regis and the Fossil Forest on Portland and at Lulworth Cove.
The rocks and fossils tell a fascinating story
from ancient deserts to a tropical sea packed with marine
life and from a fossil forest to dinosaur infested swamps.
The Triassic rocks of East Devon formed in a desert with huge
rivers, rather like the Nile, flowing through them. At other
times, vast lakes formed and they were subject to intense
evaporation. The start of the Jurassic is marked around the
world by a rapid rise in sea level. A tropical sea covered
the area and it was packed with marine creatures, ammonites,
(spiral shells) belemnites (the pencil shaped fossils), fish
and ichthyosaurs. At the end of the Jurassic, sea levels dropped
again and the newly formed rocks became land. A forest grew
but soon drowned under a lagoon in which it became fossilised.
Swamps and lagoons persisted in the early Cretaceous around
which the dinosaurs roamed. Finally, sea levels rose again,
allowing first sand and then the Chalk to form.
3. The Geomorphological (erosion) features.
The erosional features; the landslides of
East Devon and West Dorset, Chesil Beach and the Fleet, the
raised beaches of Portland and the Purbeck coastline including
Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove and Old Harry Rocks near Studland
are superb examples of their type.
3. The History of Science
The coast has been the subject of geological
sciences for the last 250 years. Indeed, a very considerable
part of the early thinking about the nature of the Earth,
geological time and the evolution of life was informed from
this coastline. The people who visited read like a whos who
of geological scientists. In Lyme Regis the list includes
Sir Henry De la Beche (1796-1855) the first Director of the
British Geological Survey, the Reverend William Conybere (1787-1857)
and William Buckland (1784-1856) from Oxford University and
Mary Anning, (1799 1846), perhaps the most famous fossil collector
of all time.
5. Research and Education
Today, the coast remains the subject of ongoing
research. Fossils new to science continue to be found virtually
every year. New thinking about landslides and the formation
of Chesil Beach is currently being developed, especially in
relation to the coast defence of Lyme Regis and West Bay.
The rocks also represent one of the best cross sections through
an oil field anywhere. Thousands of people come here to learn
about geology.
6. A beautiful coastline
The changing geology and the erosion cutting
into the rocks has created a coastline of great diversity
and beauty.
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